Paris Open Air Market

Our first day in Paris

What a wonderful day. We began our morning with breakfast in the apartment; fresh bread, local olives, cheese, strong coffee-all things Parisian. Then it was off to the local market about 10 blocks from the apartment. The four of us trudged off with Stu keeping pace most of the time. Poor guy, his knee is giving him lots of problems, but he trudges along anyway. The outdoor market was lively, smelled marvelous with its fresh flowers, fish and shell fish, hundreds of cheeses, straw berries that were red and sweet throughout. We bought bread and quiche, tarte d’apricot, croissants au chocolate, cheese, fresh rillette (duck pate from the country), fresh vegetables and fruits.

Prices here are very high. We wondered how the average Parisian can manage. An American ex-pat couple we met (there are many of them here) said that the young people live with their parents, share very small apartments (less than 100 square meters or 300 square feet), or live in the suburbs. They all seem to be very thin and it’s no wonder. They walk everywhere as the cars are expensive, many Parisians do not own a car, gasoline is costly, parking is worse than in Jerusalem, and food is very pricey.

We brought our goods, including a roasted chicken, home from the market and prepared our lunch. We are eating very well and haven’t yet missed having a waiter and menu with room service, like on the cruise ship.

After lunch the boys napped and Shirley and I went window shopping. French sizes are small so we didn’t buy anything since our sizes have gone up over the last two weeks. Then it was off to les Invalides to see Napolean’s tomb, the beautiful park, and the Army museum. We are walking everywhere on the narrow streets and the wide boulevards. The weather has been lovely so the sidewalk cafes are full. Parisians eat dinner late, about 9 or 9:30, and spend a two hour lunch in casual conversation. It’s lovely to watch the locals and the tourists, hear the languages from around the world.

We are very privileged to be here and have this opportunity to visit France. Wishing you could all join us. With much love and best wishes to you all.

Stu and Adrienne

Cherbourg and the Beaches of Normandie

Cherbourg, and the sky is overcast and cold. We think of the Umbrellas of Cherbourg, but I regress.

Cherbourg is our final travel stop on this cruise. We will spend half the day visiting the American cemetery and Omaha Beach. We drive through the country side for 90 minutes until we reach the American Cemetery. Along the way we pass 16th century stone farm houses and out buildings still in use. Healthy looking cows fill the pastures, small herds, many of them white. The area is knows for a variety of cheeses including Camembert which comes from a town nearby of the same name. There will be very little time for visiting on this short tour, but we are determined to enjoy it the best we can.

We arrive at the beautifully well-kept cemetery overlooking the beach where our brave young men and women fought to liberate France and end the war with Germany. Nearly 10,000 Americans are buried here, their grave sites marked by small marble crosses and Jewish stars. We are surprised by how many Stars we see bearing names like Roth, Kawalsky, and Stern. We are reminded that there are few veterans of this war still alive and wonder if we will erect similar memorial cemeteries to our fallen young men and women in Kabul or Iraq. And if we have cemeteries there, will they be respected and will Americans visit? I think not.

From the cemetery and memorial, which this abbreviated tour doesn’t allow time for visiting, we drive a short distance to Omaha beach. It is difficult not to consider the film footage we have seen in The Longest Day and Saving Private Ryan. How odd that we remember those films clearly, but not the history lessons from our high school days when we studied this war. I walked on Omaha beach, imagining how I might feel dropped in the ocean, slogging my way through the surf, only to face machine gun fire from the well-entrenched Germans in the concrete bunkers. One sergeant wrote, “You can manufacture guns, you can purchase ammunition, but you can’t buy the valor that men possess.” (I’m paraphrasing because I don’t recall the exact quote.) This was a war with a purpose, a goal, an end plan. I wish we could say the same of the current wars.

From the American cemetery and Omaha Beach we followed the trail of liberation to the first French town liberated by the Allies in June 1944, St. Mere l’Eglise. It is also the site of the movie The Longest Day. During the invasion one American parachuter caught his shoot in the church steeple. He was clearly visible hanging from the church and a ripe target for the Germans who were occupying the town. HIs only hope was to pretend he was already dead, and so he did, hanging in plain view for several hours, listening to the church bells ringing only feet from his ears. When the Allies arrived en masse and took over the town, he was saved. The town has not forgotten. There are plaques remembering the liberation and thanking the Allied forces.

In addition to the church, we had another treat, the weekly outdoor market. There were fresh vegetables, including organic choices, but also trailers with fresh breaks, caravan pulled grills featuring a variety of grilled to your specifications sausages, several fresh fish vendors, a charcuterie, the typical clothes and what not for sale, local cheeses (we bought some stinky cheese to take back to the ship), and an aromatic creperie on wheels. There were long lines at the grills but Stu and I headed for the creperie. His choice, fresh paper thin crepe with jambon (ham) and fromage (cheese). I went for dessert, nutella and banana on a fresh crepe. We enjoyed the lunch we ate seated on a park bench in front of the old church. This was our kind of travel and we loved it.

Last day at sea

Thursday, April 28

We spent our last day at sea yesterday, and again, it seemed to fly by. We did manage to play Mexican Train for a couple of hours in the morning. I have carried this set, weighs at least 8 pounds, since Arizona and I was determined that we would play it at least once. Amazing to us how little time, other than dinners, we spent together with our lovely group of eight. We each had different priorities, relaxed and roamed in different areas of the ship or in our cabins. The ship is so large (2500 persons) that it was easy not to run into one another.

For our penultimate dinner onboard we went to the speciality restaurant, Tuscan Grille. The trend in the newer cruise ships is to have dining rooms with speciality menus for which you pay extra. Since there is so much food already on the ship, Stu and I didn’t indulge much until this last evening. The dining room food has been mediocre, still good and well served and presented, but mediocre. We have gotten so spoiled. We heard that the best dining on board was at the Tuscan Grille, so off we went on the final formal night on board.

Dinner was wonderful, a bit over the top in the assortment, presentation, number of staff serving us (1 waiter, an assistant waiter, a manager, a wine steward, and another manager who kept checking in). We each ordered filet mignon for our main entree and no one was disappointed. This was unlike two nights before when Linda and Bob returned their steaks to the kitchen three times and finally ate salad for dinner. To top off the dinner Stu arranged for a honeymoon cake for our honey moon couple, Steve and Carol. Our joke since we’ve been on board is that this honeymoon couple has had 6 chaperones. With the singing of Happy Honeymoon to You by the entire wait staff, Steve declared the need for chaperones has come to an end--so we are now officially off the hook and not responsible for Steve and Carol’s behavior any longer.

Another lovely day at sea comes to an end.

Adrienne and Stu

Vigo, Spain

Vigo, Spain Tuesday, April 26th (I think)

We’ve enjoyed beautiful weather on our trip. No need for jackets or scarves, although that will probably happen.

Our ship docked at Vigo, the third largest city in the Spanish province of Gallicia. Well known for its dairy, cheeses, wines, calvados, vegetables and maritime trade. With a population of 300,000 it looks much like any other european port city growing towards modern high rise buildings, but not yet there. The country side is lovely, lush green rolling hills whose hill tops are dotted with windmills as the country moves toward more and more renewable energy, one windmill at a time.

We are on our way to Santiago de Compostela with a guide, unfortunately, who is a devout Catholic and who chooses to spend the 90 minute drive with stories about Saint James, the patron saint of Sanitago whose remains, according to legend and the church, were found 900 years after his death and carried to Compostela where there is a large church, our destination, that bears his name. It is expected that once in one’s Catholic lifetime, you will do a pilgrimage to one of the great Catholic sites, this is the third most visited. Pilgrims are to walk 100 kilometers to the Church, or drive 200 kilometers to receive their certificate of having coming to Saint James Church. The sign of the pilgrim is the backpack and the walking stick with a scallop shell afixed to the top of the staff. We saw plenty of backpackers throughout the city.

Santiago de Compostela is known for the university, (35,000 students at USC) and the church and related shrines. Within the church itself, there are alcoves that have alcoves, seemingly going on forever. Confessional boxes line one wall. The altar, and its very large, ornate angels, are all gilted in gold. The oppulance of the church is splendid, and tragic. There is little of charm for Stu and I and we leave the tour 15 minutes after the guide enters the church.

Once on our own, Stu and I did what we prefer to do when we travel, explore on our own and get surprised. And we did. There were narrow winding streets, cobblestone walkways, tiny shops with quiet shop keepers. It is not the way here to shout about your wares nor to push you to buy. We were free to wander this small city. And what do we find in abundance? Besides the religious souvenirs, the city has multiple small cafes featuring fruits de mer. Large lobsters show off their pincers in cafe aquariums. Nearly every cafe features an octopus ready to serve, mussels in abundance (20% of the world’s muscles come from Vigo area).

These cities last forever because they are built of stone, and more stone. Santiago de Compastelo doesn’t have the charm of Obidas, with its flowered pots and walkways, but it could. This city is split between the university and the historic church buildings and neither has taken over. The center square facing the church is unrelieved by any greenery and the stone is drab. But there is music in Santiago de Compestelo. Our guide hadn’t told us but we learned that the musical instrument of the area is the bagpipe. That explained why there were two bagpipers, young men, one in costume, one not, playing their Spanish bagpipes as an enticement to tourists to drop their change. Had we only known before we left Santiago we would have purchased some of their tunes.

Stu and Adrienne

dancing under the stars

Dancing Under the Stars

Saturday, the night we returned from the Azores adventure, was show time for me. A week’s rehearsals completed, the 18 guests who remained from our original 28 dancers, were ready for the show. We’d been rehearsing all week in an empty lounge to the music recorded on our choreographer’s (Matt) Apple computer. But at 10 PM when we assembled in the Sky Lounge for a final get together, 200 people were already there dancing to the live band. Trust me, there is a big difference between rehearsals in quiet private and a rocking, rolling dance floor with couples jumping and jiving to a live band. We were not quite ready, but at 10:30 the lights were on us and we tapped and shimmied and went Bananas (a featured song).

All my fears of not remembering the steps came true. I was going left when others were going right. I shimmied when they kicked. But, my faithful friends who had stayed awake late to cheer me on, assured me that they couldn’t tell I was out of step because the 18 dancers had about 18 different steps going simultaneously. Just goes to prove that learning to count to eight is not sufficient if you want to dance with the stars. I have new respect for all of those dancers we see on TV and in the movies, especially for Ginger Rogers who danced backwards in high heels.

Stu and Adrienne

Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon, Portugal and the Mid-evil town of Obidas

For this short stop in Lisbon, we took a ship’s tour to the mid-evil town of Obidas. Built by the Moors in the 14th & 15th Century, the town has been held by multiple groups including the Phoenicians, Romans, Greeks, Spanish, and even invaded by Napolean on three separate occasions.

Obidas is a lovely, preserved town with narrow cobble stone streets, tiny gardens in bloom, multiple churches, and red tiled roof tops. The featured products include a Portugese liqueur made from sour cherries served in chocolate cups. The national bird is the rooster and painted figurines abound. I was delighted with the cork products including purses, jewelry, card holders, pens, and more. Roxanne was in Portugal during her junior year in college (20 years ago!) and returned home with a small black rooster figurine. Those figurines are still featured in every shop, but since I still have mine there was no need to purchase another. Due to the new luggage restrictions, we refrain from buying anything larger than a postcard--which is both a shame and a blessing.

Stu and I finished up our time in Obidas enjoying the local beer and pastry (I had the beer, Stu had the pastry). Then it was back on the bus for the 90 minute drive to the ship.

Tomorrow we land in Vigo, Spain.

Good night, Stu and Adrienne

Ponto delgado, Azores

This was our first day off the ship. The weather cooperated, again. Linda and Bill arranged for a tour guide, Ricardo Amorim, to meet us at the ship. He was there on time and the 8 of us, plus Ricardo, were off for a tour of this island, the largest of 9 islands in the archipelago that belongs to Portugal. The island is small, not much bigger than Manhattan, with 150,000 residents. It is plush, green and tropical. The wildest animal is the rabbit. No snakes, no rats or mice, no spiders even. Fishing, agriculture, and tourism are the principle industries.

It is easy to believe that the US is at the forefront of the environmental wars, if you haven’t traveled elsewhere. Nearly half of the electricity on the island comes from geothermal sources. They expect to have 70% of their electricity from geothermal sources within the next few years. They also use water to generate electricity, drive small cars, have public transportation, and solar and wind energy under development.

The islands are volcanic and date to around 4700 BC, about the same time as the pyramids in Egypt. During our tour we saw crater lakes, nothing as blue as the one in Oregon, but all have fresh water and lush green surroundings.

Ricardo was rather a unique tour guide. Born on the island, and married without children, he’s quite the entrepreneur. His blue tooth was in use throughout the day as he arranged tours for his other drivers and himself. He has traveled away from the island, but this is home where his parents still live, his father operates a grocery store, and his nieces and nephews thrive. Ricardo is also a joke teller. His material comes from the many tourists he drives about the island. With his wonderful ability to mimic their actions and exchanges, he kept us in stitches for hours. I didn’t learn much about the island’s history, but I did learn about his Japanese tourists, the revenge of the tourist on the fly, (ask me about that one after I’ve had at least one drink), and many slightly off color stories. Carol, one of the group, was a fabulous audience. Her laughter filled the van and we couldn’t help but laugh along with her.

Back to the ship in time for a late lunch, another rehearsal for me before the night’s performance, and then rest time until dinner. What a life!

Adrienne and Stu

Ponto delgado, Azores

This was our first day off the ship. The weather cooperated, again. Linda and Bill arranged for a tour guide, Ricardo Amorim, to meet us at the ship. He was there on time and the 8 of us, plus Ricardo, were off for a tour of this island, the largest of 9 islands in the archipelago that belongs to Portugal. The island is small, not much bigger than Manhattan, with 150,000 residents. It is plush, green and tropical. The wildest animal is the rabbit. No snakes, no rats or mice, no spiders even. Fishing, agriculture, and tourism are the principle industries.

It is easy to believe that the US is at the forefront of the environmental wars, if you haven’t traveled elsewhere. Nearly half of the electricity on the island comes from geothermal sources. They expect to have 70% of their electricity from geothermal sources within the next few years. They also use water to generate electricity, drive small cars, have public transportation, and solar and wind energy under development.

The islands are volcanic and date to around 4700 BC, about the same time as the pyramids in Egypt. During our tour we saw crater lakes, nothing as blue as the one in Oregon, but all have fresh water and lush green surroundings.

Ricardo was rather a unique tour guide. Born on the island, and married without children, he’s quite the entrepreneur. His blue tooth was in use throughout the day as he arranged tours for his other drivers and himself. He has traveled away from the island, but this is home where his parents still live, his father operates a grocery store, and his nieces and nephews thrive. Ricardo is also a joke teller. His material comes from the many tourists he drives about the island. With his wonderful ability to mimic their actions and exchanges, he kept us in stitches for hours. I didn’t learn much about the island’s history, but I did learn about his Japanese tourists, the revenge of the tourist on the fly, (ask me about that one after I’ve had at least one drink), and many slightly off color stories. Carol, one of the group, was a fabulous audience. Her laughter filled the van and we couldn’t help but laugh along with her.

Back to the ship in time for a late lunch, another rehearsal for me before the night’s performance, and then rest time until dinner. What a life!

Adrienne and Stu

six days at sea

Six days at sea

Dear Friends and Family,

Although internet access is possible on the ship, it is very expensive ($.42 a minute) so I’ve only been doing my classes and skipping the blog. This is catch up time.

We’ve spent six days at sea, off in the Atlantic, enjoying beautiful weather and mild seas. We’ve been surprisingly busy. Our friends Shirley and Bob are rehearsing with the ship’s choir and have talked me into joining the dancers. Every day since we’ve been on the ship I’ve been trotting off to dance rehearsals. I have new respect for dancers and for their memories. Every rehearsal feels like we are learning a new dance because I can’t remember the steps from one day to another.

We’ve spent surprisingly little time with our friends during the day. Bob and Shirley are rehearsing their two songs, I’m at dance rehearsals or walking the track, Stu is in heaven in the spa enjoying the jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, and hot beds, others are off doing their own thing. And we meet for dinner each evening after enjoying a bottle of wine together in our staterooms. The ship’s entertainment has been enjoyable with an impersonator we enjoyed very much. He sang some old favorites and we actually could remember the words, so we sang along.

We celebrated Linda’s birthday on board ship on Sunday. We wanted to surprise her with flowers in her room, a lovely cake and champagne at dinner. Except for the flowers never arriving until dinner, we sang with the dining room crew and were only a little off-key for happy birthday. The champagne was flat but the chocolate cake was yummy.

And Monday night we celebrated a beautiful seder dinner, led by a retired cantor. Nearly one hundred of us enjoyed the Passover dinner, complete with bone shank, fresh horse radish, matzoh, and Manischewitz wine. I’ve been on a matzoh diet for the past week, no bread or pastry for me, but that doesn’t mean that I’m going without more than enough to eat!

The time has gone very quickly, much too quickly. We weren’t ready for the first day ashore in the Azores where we met Ricardo Amorim, our tour guide. But that’s for another blog.

We never forget how blessed we are to be able to take this journey. Wishing you could all be with us.

Adrienne and Stu

Dear Friends and Family,

Here we are in Miami, at the Hilton Hotel preparing for our short drive to the cruise terminal. We can see the cruise ship, Celebrity Eclipse, from our hotel room window. Miami is spectacular. Lots of high rise buildings overlooking the multiple waterscapes and the dynamic outlines of the performing arts center, opera and ballet concert hall, and museums which dot the downtown landscape.

Our journey here was relatively easy with a few mishaps along the way. We left our Phoenix home at 5 AM on Friday for a quick drive to the airport. Shirley and Bob Keaster squeezed into Lee Harris' SUV alongside us, our collective luggage, and lots of giggles. We were all in vacation mode. And being the Jewish mother I am, I packed freshly made egg salad, low-carb bread, grapefruit slices, and a lone red apple for our snacking pleasure en route. We all made it to the airport and through security and onto our Southwest flight headed for Denver (I know, not the most direct route to Fort Lauderdale airport, but that's the way it is). We planned for a brief layover in Denver before changing plans, but were delayed. Somewhere during the first flight the egg salad container opened and the contents spilled into the bag. We were able to salvage most of the salad but dumped the bag, plastic utensils, napkins and all.

The flight to Ft. Lauderdale was delayed 45 minutes but then took off and headed east, into a few thunderstorms, fasten seat belt signs blinking rapidly, and Shirley and Bob sleeping as soon as the wheels lifted off the ground. As soon as I've figured out how to download the photos, I'll send proof of their all-doze flight. We wondered if this was how our trip together would be--the Keasters sleeping, Stu reading from his newly acquired kindle, and me listening to my Ipod and knitting.

Ft. Lauderdale we rented a car for the 20 mile trip into Miami, checked into the hotel, and then we were off to Linda and Bill's for a much awaited dinner. The Werners rented an apartment on the 52nd floor in a luxury building. The entire apartment was done up in white, couches, furniture, walls, towels, bedspreads, everything. I felt like a spot of dirt walking through all of that cleanliness. The view from the patio was gorgeous--all of downtown Miami, Biscayne Bay, and the cruise ship port. The hum of the surrounding air conditioning units, which sit atop every nearby building was a bit deafening, but not so loud that the visual appeal was wiped out.

Linda and Bill, gracious hostesses that they are, prepared a fine repast, served on elegant matching white dishes, wine served from tumblers, and appetizers out of a plastic bowl and matching paper bag. Okay, the kitchen was not very well equipped, but the 8 of us, Steve and Carol included, had a fine repast, shared some stories, and toasted the trip.

And now it's off to the ship.

Adrienne and Stu

before the trip

It's Thursday noon and we haven't packed yet, but we will. Stu's ready with his eye meds, his new Kindle (which he loves), and a walking stick packed. He's determined to enjoy every bit of this great adventure. I'm packing my Ipod which I've recently learned how to load with audio books and music--that's already an accomplishment. Knitting is in the bag, directions for a complex sweater ready to twist my mind, and my Hebrew practice books on the table.

We consider ourselves so blessed to be able to take this wonderful trip that we've been planning for most of the year.

Friday we fly to Miami with dear friends Shirley and Bob Keaster. There we meet up with Linda and Bill Werner, and Steve and Carol (the newlyweds). We're scheduled for an organic pizza dinner with salad and wine.

Saturday it's down to the pier in Miami to board the Celebrity Eclipse which we take us across the Atlantic for 7 blissful days of nothing but ocean. I'm really looking forward to that. Then it's a one day stop in the Azures, Portugal, Spain, Normandy, France and landing in South Hampton on April 29--the same day as Prince William and Katie's wedding. Since we didn't get invites, we are flying directly to Orly airport in Paris to begin a one week stay.

From Paris we part company with the other 3 couples and Stu and I head, via the Chunnel, for London where we're rented a flat in the theatre district. We haven't made any specific plans, but we will be doing a lot of theater.

On May 16th we fly to Iceland for a three day stop over and some sightseeing before leaving Europe on May 19th for 6 wonderful days in New York with our beloved family. Home to Phoenix on May 24th.

I'll try to update the blog every couple of days, and insert some pictures if we figure out how to do that again--we haven't tried since our Israel trip two years ago.

Blogs are easy. If you want to follow, great, if not, at least you can.

While we are away we have made house sitting arrangements, set up the gardening so we don't come home to dead plants, emptied the refrigerator, taken the cars off the road, and put our phones on vacation mode. You can always reach us via e-mail which we'll be picking up on a regular basis.

Bon Voyage